I thought you might like to know how I evaluate tools. I use the "Condition Chart" found on pages 8 and 9 of "A Price Guide to Antique Tools" by Herbert P. Kean & Emil S. Pollak. This book plus its companion volume "Collecting Antique Tools are available through The Astragal Press, PO Box 239, Mendham, NJ 07945-0239, Tel (201) 543-3045. (Many of you have already picked up a copy of their book catalog at my booth. If not, please do. They have many fine references for the collector.)
In general, I try to only stock (G+) or better - ready to pickup and use with only honing of cutting edges required. Occasionally I pick up a tool in the (G), (G-), or (f) category that I feel has some particular interest. At times, more modern tools such as vintage Stanley planes put me in a quandary. From a collectors standpoint they may well be in the "fair" category due to the amount of remaining original finish while simultaneously being a superb users tool. When this happens, I will duel rate the tool - by appearance and by utilization. I never stock (P) tools unless they have some decorator value.
| Category with price adjusters | Surfatce Condition (japanning, plating, patina, rust, stains, pits, checks) | Wear (Shape change, nicks, chips, binding, or looseness) | Repairs & Parts | Usability |
| "Fine" (F) | Original finish 90-100% intact. Wood may be refinished. Slight traces of rust or stain. | Very slight blemishes. Parts move freely, but not loosely. Crisp | No repairs, reproduced, broken or missing parts. | Fully usable, as originally made |
| "Good plus" (G+) | Midway between "Good" and "Fine" | Midway between "Good" and "Fine" |
Midway between "Good" and "Fine"
|
Midway between "Good" and "Fine"
|
| "Good" (G) | Original finish 50-75% intact. Moderate rust or stain. Slight checks or wormholes. May be rejapanned. | Moderate blemishes. Some looseness or binding. Edge and corner wear | Proper unobtrusive repairs and replacements. No missing parts. | Usable, Normally needs cutting edge sharpened, etc. |
| "Good minus" (G-) | Midway between "Good" and "Fair" | Midway between "Good" and "Fair" | Midway between "Good" and "Fair" |
Midway between "Good" and "Fair"
|
| "Fair" (f) | Original finish 0-25% intact.Heavy rust, pits or stains, cracks or wormholes | Heavy blemishes. Very loose, or tightly bound up parts. Noticeable shape change or modification. | Improper or obvious repairs or replacements.Minor missing or broken parts affecting function.Major broken parts not affecting function. | Partially or totally unusable. |
| "Poor" (P) | Disintegration from rust, worm, rot, or burn. Severe cracks. | Heavy lose of material through wear. Severe abuse. | Major broken or missing parts affecting function. | Unusable. |
Many debates have taken place on what techniques should be used to preserve antique tools. One school says that to have true collectors value a 100-year old tool should retain all 200 years of dust and dirt. Many English antique tools are completely reconditioned and sold as "like-new". I take a somewhat middle course. I was brought up to respect and care for tools. That meant keeping them clean, occasionally treating wood parts with boiled linseed oil to keep them from drying out and cracking and keeping metal parts cleaned and lightly oiled.
Therefore, most of the tools I sell have been lightly cleaned and preserved as described above. This includes washing wooden parts in a solution of equal parts of turpentine, boiled linseed oil and vinegar and carefully drying them and removing all excess oil. Unfinished metal parts, such as blades, are lightly scraped to remove rust or lightly scrubbed with a nylon pad and oil. A light coat of Marvel "Mystery" Oil is left on all the metal parts as protection against moisture.
If the above bothers you, there are many other dealers that handle their tools "as found".
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